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LIFESTYLE

In the Kitchen with Terry Paulding

Terry Paulding
Contributor
October 2007

When life gives you leftovers, what do you do with them? If you’re like me, you forget them, till they’re too old to use and then apply the “when in doubt, throw it out” rule—a very wise rule, if not an economical bit of procrastination. But I’m making an October resolution, which is to be more creative and use at least some of the best bits up. One way to do that, is to make a frittata.

Frittata’s are very simple. Egg, plus stuff. Plenty of stuff, therefore plenty of flavor, and you have a wonderful dish. I’ve had someone come up to me at catered event, and let me know that our frittata was the best thing they’ve ever tasted. It was just vegetables and cheese and egg—zucchini and spinach with parmesan cheese, in that particular case. But I’ve made some with some leftover sausage, and broccoli that didn’t get eaten up at dinner, and it’s turned out great. There are a couple of secrets—the first is to use plenty of good cheese, and preferably a good strong one. My favorite is Reggiano parmesan, or, as an alternative, some leftover bits of blue cheese or whatever else you don’t have quite enough of to serve another way, as long as it’s got some flavor and is crumbled or grated up.

Another way to boost the flavors in your frittata, is to caramelize some onions and throw those in the mix. Caramelization is something I often have to explain to my cooking students, but it’s pretty simple. In all foods there are sugars. When sugar cooks, it starts to brown. Which is also why you get a nice sear on your steak, by the way. Onions have a high sugar content although you may not notice it when they are raw. Cook them slowly, in a bit of butter, and you eventually end up with the good dark goo French onion soup is made of (but that’s another story altogether). Dice up and cook them a bit faster, over medium heat, and you get a nice bit of browning on the edges, and that sweet caramel flavor is enhanced, and in turn, enhances what you’re putting the onions in.

If you have a few old mushrooms kicking around the fridge, sauté them with the onions. They are “flavor enhancers” of the first order. And, finally, if you have a few sun dried tomatoes around, or some fresh cherry tomatoes, those are great in a frittata. Just make sure to season the eggs well (take a teaspoonful as a ‘tester’ and cook it, then adjust the seasoning).

This is all starting to sound complicated. So, here’s the basic formula for any frittata. For every 6 eggs, add 3/4 to one cup of “stuff, a couple tablespoons of cheese, a tablespoon of cream if you want (it’s not required), and season to taste. You could make it on the stove top, like a big omelet that you flip half-way through (onto a plate then back into the pan), or, much easier, make it in the oven. Just bake at 300°F. until it’s firm, in a buttered 8x8 pan (if you make twice as much and use an 8x13 pan). It will take about 15-20 minutes, depending on whether you have more egg than stuff.

Once it is cooked, turn it out of the pan, cut into wedges or squares, and enjoy hot or at room temperature. Just don’t throw it in the back of the fridge and forget about it!

Terry Paulding is President of Paulding & Company, a Creative Kitchen, 1410 D 62nd Street in Emeryville. Visit her website at www.pauldingandco.com.